Tom was feeling a bit weak, and after his warm up decided not to try the route that day.Tom trying to perfect the tape. Two more pieces go in here, and a nut goes in the mouth (tee hee!) Both climbers looked strong, solid, and focused on the early sections of the route. In my view, even if they’d failed to climb the route, they’d be far from punters (well, unless they truly punted). The Cobra Crack will be featured in Wide Boyz 2. The Cobra Crack will be featured in Wide Boyz 2. Your subscription to our award-winning print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for climbers like you.
It was a lot of fun, and not too different from filming friends at the boulders, except that everything is dialed up a notch: the gear, the need to capture the right moments, and of course the seriousness of the route. joined the ranks of Trotter, Nico Favresse, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Honnold, and other Interestingly, both Randall and Whittaker gained their reputation as offwidth climbers when they visited the U.S. in the spring of 2012 and repeated many of the country’s hardest wide-cracks (see issue 200).
The Cobra Crack will be featured in Wide Boyz 2. According to UKclimbing.com, Whittaker was successful in making the crack’s eighth ascent a few days ago. What I’ll remember most, though, is watching two consummate professionals do what they do best: bite off more than they can chew, and chew it anyway.A quick description of the route: It begins with a 20-foot long 5.12+ stemming groove leading to a hands-free stance on a small ledge. That first day, Pete made it through to the mono on all three attempts, falling a move higher each time. Tom fell going to the mono three times. They gain the mono with the right hand, make a long reach to an index-down lock at the lip, pull through to a pinky lock above the lip with the right, and throw the right heel above the right hand. In between attempts, Alex and I hung out in the tree, lamenting our lack of chess board and trying not to drink water so we wouldn’t have to pee.Conditions made quite a difference for climbers and cameras alike. The cam he’s falling on is not there on redpoint burns!Alex and I jugged up into a tree while Tom and Pete warmed up on The Earlmaker, then top-roped sections of the route to further warm up and dial in the sequences. It was almost as if this tension, this stress was fun for them, as if urgency made them relax.
By Rock and Ice | The 2020 Piolets d’Or committee also awarded Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák for Chamlang, and Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima for Rakaposhi.But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world.For 35 years Rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity. Sonnie laybacked the corner to the right, but Nico Favresse “pioneered” a high heel-hook which opened up some face holds to the left of the crack. Pete belayed, and also climbed a bit for photographer We planned our last filming day for Friday, September 20, as the forecast was looking poor for the rest of their trip. The sun was out on the first two attempts, making the crack feel greasy. Wide Boyz II – Slender Gentlemen is the story of Pete and Tom’s mission to climb Cobra Crack, and, you’ve got to hand it to Hot Aches, they know how to tell a good story. for easy placement below the crux. Video was taken at Baron Lake.Steve Swenson, Mark Richey, Graham Zimmerman and Chris Wright have won for their ascent of Link Sar, and Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva won for their ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau. Another 5.12+ section follows, with a decent rest on a juggy flake. This is obviously “rubbish,” as they’ve now done the hardest offwidth and now one of the hardest finger cracks in the world. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. The locks are painful and the feet minimal. The temperature dropped and each climber looked much stronger on their last try that day, but the impending rain was worrisome. A few thuggy moves lead to a good stance, or a nice whipper into space.Normally the whipper is bigger. It was Tom’s second drink in 7 years, I think he said, making me either a bad influence or a very good one.Tom and Pete will be the first to tell you that they are not very strong.
It was a lot of fun, and not too different from filming friends at the boulders, except that everything is dialed up a notch: the gear, the need to capture the right moments, and of course the seriousness of the route. Though so much was riding on today, and indeed on this first go (skin management, you see), there seemed to be a relaxed air about the pair of climbers. The route is too painful for more than a couple of tries each day. For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our Would they have enough opportunity to finish the route off before they went home? Climbing inspiration, supported by you. Build yourself a crack machine and start gunning for that 10th ascent!I admit that while I’d like to be on that list, I’m not willing to make the sacrifices necessary. Wednesday was another day spent in the tree, filming Tom for three more tries. It did rain Sunday night and the following day, but not so much as to soak the route. The Wide Boyz are some of my favorite role models in climbing because What I will take away from this experience is that As a parting shot, I want to let you in on a little secret: If you’ve been to Squamish and climbed Wormworld Cave, you’ve bouldered harder than both these slender men. It also made the filming tough, because the dappled light coming through the trees creates very high contrast; you either end up with blown out sunny bits or totally dark spots, and finding the balance is not an easy task.
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